Midnight Train to Georgia
In October 2023, VINOYASA travelled via train to Georgia, the birthplace of wine. The origin of this journey began with a good friend, with whom I have been on many a good adventure. Over a cream tea, we fantasised about our next adventure, where could we go that would fulfil Liz’s interest in fabrics, my interest in wine, and our joint interest in nature? Well, I said, Georgia is the birthplace of wine! Liz replied in astoundment that it was also the land of the first ever found fabric remnants which date back 30’000 years! We discovered Georgia is edged by the Black Sea and the Caucasian mountains fragment throughout the country with the weaving Kura River giving life to bountiful flora and fauna in many beautiful national parks - We had found our nature connection.
Two weeks later, I called Liz, and said one simple word; “Georgia?” “Oh yes,” she replied. Two months later, we met at London St Pancras to begin our journey over land, to Georgia. Prepare to learn about traditional viticulture, vinification, qvevri and the culture of wine in Georgia.
We embarked on a mesmerising train journey through the heart of Europe, beginning with a beer in Belgium and onto the picturesque landscapes of Romania, where rolling hills and historic castles (Dracula’s castle to be precise) unfolded outside the window. As the train snaked its way through the enchanting countryside, we witnessed the beauty of Turkey with its vibrant markets and ancient ruins. After a 26 hour train across Turkey, the journey culminated in the welcoming embrace of Georgia, where we finally got a glass of exquisite Georgian wine in our eager hands, just as the clock struck midnight!
In a serendipitous turn of events, the weekend before I left, there was a Georgian Wine Festival run by the incredibly talented Sarah Abbot MW and Justin Howard Sneyd MW, in Devon. A valuable experience where I made lots of lovely connections and many promises of visits to wineries, I left the festival and set off straight to the train station to keep to my word!
Beginning our Journey in Tbilisi, a metropolitan wonder with ancient relics on every corner. The abundance of wine bars made it very difficult to narrow down which to visit, but with help from Anoush, a Georgian friend and wine enthusiast - we went to some of her favourites. I had done some research in anticipation of the trip but nothing could have prepared me for the vastness of the wine lists.
Georgian endemic wine grape varieties play a vital role in shaping the country's winemaking identity, offering a diverse array of flavours, textures, and aromas that reflect the unique terroir and ancient winemaking techniques of this historic region.
The anticipation of tasting all of the wines was almost too much, I started with a delicious Qvevri Rkasiteli, a fragrant citrus and blossom wine, with a rustic grippy mouthfeel that complimented the Georgian sheep cheese and the fresh tomatoes (many of the producers at the festival had told me Georgia produces the best tomatoes in the world and they were entirely right!)
One of the most famous Georgian grape varieties is Saperavi, a dark-skinned grape known for producing deeply coloured, full-bodied red wines with rich tannins and notes of dark fruits. Saperavi wines are often aged in traditional clay vessels called qvevris, adding a distinct character to the final product.
Rkatsiteli is another prominent grape in Georgian winemaking, appreciated for its high acidity and versatility in both white and amber wine production. White Rkatsiteli wines exhibit flavours of green apple, citrus, and a pleasant crispness, while amber wines display complex aromas due to extended skin contact during fermentation.
Kisi is an indigenous white grape variety that thrives in Georgia's diverse terroirs. Kisi wines are known for their aromatic profile, showcasing floral notes, stone fruits, and a distinctive minerality. Often fermented and aged in qvevris, Kisi wines offer a unique sensory experience.
Other notable Georgian endemic grape varieties include Khikhvi, Chinuri, Tavkveri, and Aladasturi, each contributing to the country's vibrant winemaking culture and a global reputation for producing wines with a strong sense of place and tradition.
What is Qvevri wine? Qvevri wine is a traditional Georgian production method where the grape juice and must is fermented in teardrop-shaped clay vessels that are buried underground. Qvevri wine, also known as amber wine or orange wine, is a type of wine made with white grapes that are left in contact with their skins and seeds for an extended period during fermentation. This winemaking method gives qvevri wine its unique amber hue and complex flavours. The wine is typically aged in large clay vessels called qvevris, buried underground to maintain a consistent temperature. Qvevri wine is known for its rich texture, intense aromas, and tannic structure, making it a popular choice among wine enthusiasts (c’est moi) looking for a bold and distinctive drinking experience.
What is the history of Georgian wine? In the ancient land of Georgia, winemaking has a history that spans over 8,000 years, making it one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. Georgian wine tradition is deeply rooted in the country's culture and is considered a central element of social, religious, and culinary life.
The traditional Georgian winemaking method, known as Qvevri, involves fermenting and ageing wine in large clay vessels buried underground. This process gives Georgian wines their unique characteristics and distinct flavours.
Throughout history, Georgian wine has played a significant role in diplomatic relations, trade, and cultural exchanges with neighbouring regions and empires. The country's diverse terroir, with its varying microclimates and soil types, has contributed to the cultivation of a wide array of indigenous grape varieties, some of which are found nowhere else in the world.
Despite periods of political turmoil and the challenges of modernization, Georgian winemaking has persevered, with traditional methods being preserved and handed down through generations. Today, Georgian wines are gaining recognition on the international stage for their quality, authenticity, and distinctiveness, attracting wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs from around the globe to explore this ancient winemaking tradition.
Whilst visiting different regions throughout the eastern side of Georgia, aside from the wine, the thing that blew me away was the incredibly generous hospitality. Each winemaker, vineyard manager, grape picker or Qvevri cleaner was so enthused and passionate about Georgian wine, so eager to share, often with a hefty slab of cheese and home made flat bread. This country is full of heart and delicious wine.
Thank you Georgia and to all the wonderful hosts, I hope to see you again very soon!
Written By Abi Jones - 17th March 2024